Pittsburgh diner

I had some good meals in Pittsburgh. That was one reason I chose to stay downtown, even though it was a bus ride across the river to the wedding venue: I was within walking distance of a variety of restaurants. Among the best were the outstandingly tangy and moist fried chicken at The Eagle, which is actually a chain with outlets scattered across the Midwest, but this was the first I'd encountered it; and the jambalaya at Iovino's, a brasserie out in the suburb of Mt. Lebanon near where my brother lives; he took me there. It's some of the best jambalaya I've had in a restaurant which doesn't specialize in Louisiana cuisine; other entrees I might have considered included grilled fish with polenta or a bbq burger.

Other than that: When I travel, I follow the way of the Trillin: I look for distinctively local foods that I'm not likely to find at home, that are regular cuisine and nothing fancy or expensive. I found two of them in Pittsburgh, neither mentioned in any guides to the city I read, the way that the cheesesteak is always mentioned in guides to Philadelphia. One I liked a lot, the other I definitely didn't.

The one I liked was Italian wedding soup. Every Italian restaurant whose menu I checked, and some places that weren't even Italian, had wedding soup and usually no other. This surprised me. In California, the inevitable Italian soup is minestrone. Go to an Italian restaurant whose menu lists "soup of the day" - seven days a week that soup is minestrone. Almost never any other offerings. I didn't see any minestrone in Pittsburgh. I like wedding soup, which I'd previously only had from jars I found in the grocery. It's not a soup you eat at weddings; the name refers to the marriage of meat (tiny meatballs) and vegetables (typically spinach and others). The fresh versions were of course much better than the jars, and the best I had was at a really fine Italian restaurant whose only flaw was the malfunctioning restrooms, Pizzzaiolo Primo. Despite the name, there's no particular menu emphasis on pizza; I had shrimp linguini.

The 'only in Pittsburgh' I didn't like was the idea of a deli sandwich served at a local chain whose name I remembered as Prismatic Brothers. No, Primanti Bros., that was it. The sandwiches come with huge quantities of french fries (yes, in the sandwich) and cole slaw, with the ostensible ingredients of that particular type of sandwich cowering in the bottom, in "where's the beef?" style. If that's what you want, the quality of the ingredients was good. But it's not what I want.

in the Pitt

On my trip, I did something I hadn't done in over fifty years. I attended a major league baseball game. The home team Pittsburgh Pirates defeated the Milwaukee Brewers 2-1, so everybody enjoyed themselves.

The game was an optional add-on for attendees of the wedding, the day before the ceremony, and I figured it would be a good occasion to socialize with my fellow guests. It was also a glimpse into a world I rarely see.

Not having a smartphone to load my ticket onto, I had to stop at the box office to pick it up. (None of the team's or stadium's web material that I could find said where around the stadium's perimeter the box office was, and I couldn't reach them by phone. I presumed it would be near the gift shop, whose location was given, and I guessed right.)

Our seats were on the other side of the stadium, but instead of walking around the outside and using the gate there, I entered at the main gate by the box office, took the escalator (! - I'd never seen a sports stadium with an escalator before) up to the second level, where our seats were, and walked around the inside - in both senses: the walk around was inside the park, and it was inside the building, not open to the air.

PNC Park is, I understand, one of the new breed of baseball parks that are smaller and more intimate than old school, but it looked awfully big to me. The long, curved (so you couldn't see how much further there was to go), seemingly endless corridor was like nothing so much as a concourse at a huge airport. Tiny signs indicating the doors outside to numbered seating sections were inconspicuous; what occupied the attention was a vast sequence of concessionaires, and the crowds occupying their seating. The concessions were a bit different from what you get at an airport: frequently repeated outlets for junk food (no actual restaurants), and the same sequence of whiskey bars. The stadium opens 90 minutes before the game starts to allow attendees plenty of time to get lubricated, and judging from what I saw on quick visits to the restroom during the game, many people never bother to go out and watch the action.

When I finally got to my section, the weather outside was balmy. The seats were up a steep flight of steps, and at first I wasn't sure if I'd be able to see home plate from up here - oh, there it is - and such view outside as wasn't blocked by the giant scoreboard was impressive: the large river with downtown behind it, just like at the wedding venue, only this time it was the Allegheny, the river on the other side of downtown.

I've occasionally seen baseball on tv, and watching a game in person is different in a couple important ways. First, there's no play-by-play commentary. The PA limits itself to announcing the name of the next batter. If you don't know the umpire's signals, you have no way of telling a ball from a strike without averting your eyes from the field and looking way up at the scoreboard, which half the time isn't displaying the box score anyway, preferring pictures of the batters or animated geegaws - if a visiting team player strikes out, the scoreboard displays a gif of three cannons firing, that sort of thing.

That's the other thing about watching baseball without a tv camera to guide you - it's hard to know where to look, or when. Baseball is not like other sports. In basketball or soccer or hockey the action is nearly constant. In American football it's intermittent, but you know it's going to happen when the players line up and the quarterback takes the snap. But baseball consists of a long sequence of pitches that the batter doesn't hit, or fouls, interrupted at unpredictable intervals when something exciting happens. It only lasts a few seconds, so if you happen to be looking away you'll miss it. And you usually need to be looking at two widely separated places at once. The ball has gone out to the outfield over there, while the runners are on the base paths over here, and knowing what's going on with both is vital to following the game.

At any rate, despite having few hits and almost no runs, the game wasn't too boring as sports games go. My brother told me that in recent years, rule changes have prohibited the characteristic baseball activity of standing around not doing anything for long periods. So things proceeded on with dispatch - after the first couple innings, I wondered if the game would be over in an hour, though in fact it took more than two - and there were a couple exciting double plays, and so on. I'm not likely to do it again, but I didn't feel my time was wasted.

Tomorrow: food, transit, and birds in Pittsburgh.

radio silence

The reason I haven't posted for a week is that I've been out of town and lacked the ability conveniently to post.

I use my portable tablet computer to keep up with e-mail, assuming there's wi-fi I can access, but typing on the little popup keyboard is not conducive to writing at greater than minimal length. I did choose my hotel in part because it had a business center, guest-usable desktop computers, but I found on my first evening that both computers were frozen in awkward positions, and while the desk clerk agreed to put in a request for repair, nothing had been done by the time I left. Of course, there was a holiday weekend in there.

One of the hotel's two elevators was also out of service. Good thing that wasn't both of them, because my room was on the tenth floor.

The hotel was located in downtown Pittsburgh. The one in Pennsylvania. I was there - by far the furthest away from home I've gone since before the pandemic - on a compulsion I could not possibly resist, not that I wished to resist it. It was my brother's wedding. (He lives and works in Pittsburgh, as does his wife, who's a native of the area.) It took longer for him than it did for me to "find his person," as they put it in the ceremony, but he definitely has. I've met her a few times before, and they're ideal for each other.

The ceremony was held at the Grand Concourse, an elaborate and colorful preserved 19C train station converted into the kind of restaurant you'd visit for a special occasion, of which this was certainly one. There were about 30 guests, tucked into the corner of one small room for the ceremony, after which we spread out somewhat further for a very fine dinner in another room, one with a stunning view of the Monongahela River and downtown opposite.

It was a highly personalized occasion, and cherishable for all who attended. Among the guests were a couple old friends (i.e. since childhood) of my brother's, whom I know but hadn't seen in a long time. One of them is a rabbi, and he conducted the ceremony.

Part of the service was the reading of a modern version of the seven blessings, a Jewish ritual that was new to me. Seven people close to the couple were asked, and I and my other brother were among them. We each stood up, identified ourselves, and read a blessing as modified by the couple, and, at least in my case (I read the Wisdom blessing) elaborated on a bit by me: it seemed to fit the circumstances.

There was more to the celebration than the ceremony and dinner, and I'll say more about that, and about Pittsburgh - which I've been to before, but never deposited in downtown on my own resources - tomorrow.

things I didn't get

Two of these from my childhood happened to pop into mind almost simultaneously.

1. When my parents first played for me the original cast recording of 1776 (a musical they'd seen in the theater, and bought the record of partly because they knew I'd be interested in the history), I heard the opening song, "Sit Down, John," and turned to my mother in puzzlement and asked, "What does '40-S' mean?" Huh? "Well, he keeps singing that: FOR-ty ess, FOR-ty ess." It was "Vote yes: VOTE-uh yes, VOTE-uh yes."

2. I saw a singing group on tv billed as "Tony Orlando and Dawn." There were three of them: a man in the middle and a woman on either side. I figured that one woman was Toni (I hadn't seen the name written), the man was Orlando, and the other woman was Dawn. Realistic believable given names, right?

X solved

It's Mussolini.

"A" and "B" are British statesmen, Neville Chamberlain and Anthony Eden.

solve for X

Here is a quotation from a book I've been reading, about world leaders, with the names removed. Your riddle is, who is X?

A lamented that 'X is behaving just like a spoilt child, and it is difficult to know how to deal with him'; as B had warned, the more X asked for, the more he got, and the greater became his demands. He was not a spoilt child, merely an avaricious and now overweeningly self-confident and cynical brigand.

Sound like anybody we know?

two community orchestra concerts

I attended two concerts by community orchestras, non-professional groups, in San Jose this weekend. They don't aspire to professional levels of playing ability, but they can be fun to attend.

The South Bay Philharmonic, conducted by George Yefchak, is the group for which B. is a viola player. They featured Tchaikovsky's Second Symphony, a rough but thoroughly enjoyable performance which conveyed Tchaikovsky's lyricism and his varying senses of excitement, coyness, and reflection. Chosen because of the composer's use of a Ukrainian folk song as the theme for the finale.
Also on the program, the Oboe Concerto by Bohuslav Martinů, a jaggedly modernist piece featuring prominent piano doublings in the orchestral chords, giving them the crunchy sound I associate with this composer. Pamela Hakl, retired from Symphony San Jose, was the impressively skilled oboeist. Plus a brief Nocturne for strings by an early 20C Ukrainian composer, Fyodor Akimenko, played almost unintelligibly, and a rather crisp and lively arrangement by Ted Ricketts of some songs from Wicked (Stephen Schwartz, prop.).

The Winchester Orchestra, conducted by James Beauton, featured Copland's Billy the Kid and once again, Tchaikovsky, the 1812 Overture. A brave thing for a small community orchestra to undertake, with tubular bells substituting for the carillon, sort of half-heartedly, and a few mighty thwaps on the bass drum for the cannon. But just about everyone plowed in enthusiastically.
Also two darker-toned brief pieces, Barber's Essay No. 1 and a fairly new piece called Something for the Dark by Sarah Kirkland Snider. The Snider was big on curled-up crescendos and rhythmic figures both simple and complex, less so on melody or harmony, especially ending as it did in the middle of the air.
Winchester is supposed to be a more advanced orchestra than South Bay, but the sound of the cellos being altogether untogether in one of Tchaikovsky's hymn passages, or of half the winds coming in a bar early at one point in the Copland, made me wonder.

Still, both were good shows and I'm glad I went. The more so as it'll be two busy weeks before I get to another concert.

concert review: San Francisco Symphony

Dalia Stasevska has led some dazzling performances here in the past. So I was looking forward to hearing what she could do with Sibelius's dramatically extroverted Fifth Symphony.

So here she was, dressed as usual in yet another oddly-colored long coat, and her Sibelius Fifth was not dazzling, exactly, but Heroically Grand. Through most of the work, Sibelius builds up to brief but intense climaxes, and Stasevska emphasized their Grandeur. Then at the end, when Sibelius marshals up all his resources for a final blast, the Heroic Grandeur just topped them all. Stasevska was especially skilled at flowing it naturally into the coda, whose long pauses sometimes fool audiences into applause who can't tell the difference between a dominant chord and a tonic when they hear it. But that didn't happen this time. The conductor was in command.

A similar approach was taken to Vaughan Williams's Tallis Fantasia, a work you rarely hear live. The general approach was slow and worshipful, as it should be, but Stasevska built the climaxes up into some of the same sense of Grandeur that she did Sibelius.

Also on the program, and taking up a good holy chunk of it, was a new cello concerto by Anna Thorvaldsdottir, inexplicably titled Before we fall and featuring Johannes Moser as soloist. Anna (that chunk of letters, properly Þorvaldsdóttir, is not her surname, but her patronymic: you call Icelanders by their first names) is a soundscape composer who specializes in weird sonorities, and we had that here. Strange dissonant shimmerings from the orchestra began this work. There's a long cadenza filled with col legno, ponticello, and other rattling sounds. But gradually the music melted down, via some weird sinking glissandi, into deep dark low sounds from soloist and orchestra alike, punctuated by clangs and thumps from the percussion. And this might have been interesting had it been half as long.

amusing serious books

These books are both amusing, and fun to read, although they take their topics seriously.

Germania: In Wayward Pursuit of the Germans and Their History, by Simon Winder (Farrar Straus & Giroux, 2010)

I reviewed here Unruly by David Mitchell, a history of England's rulers up to Elizabeth I, dealing entirely seriously with its topic but doing so in an entirely witty and amusing style. In an acknowledgments note, Mitchell points to this book as the one whose approach he was trying to emulate with that distinctive combination, so I went to read it as well.

It does indeed have the same distinctive combination of wit and seriousness. The one thing Winder has that Mitchell doesn't is a desperate need for an editor. The beginning of the book contains enormous digressions in the form of apologias for Winder's interest in German history; and the earlier part of the book, mostly on the medieval period, wanders around chronologically a lot and concentrates just as much on later Germans' reaction to and framings of their history as on the history itself. To be fair, Winder had alerted the reader that he was going to do that.

Somewhere around the Thirty Years' War, the narrative settles down and becomes more chronological, though there are lots of marked digressions into specific points of interest, for instance a section on the Jews, in which Winder seems to be arguing that the Holocaust was an aberration and not a uniquely German perversion, and proves it by pointing to earlier German pogroms. Huh? Anyway, the main narrative ends with the Weimar Republic, and that's one of the few references to what happens afterwards.

Though there's plenty of political history in here, this is mostly a cultural history, a lot from the perspective of what historical patterns and customs survive today, especially in surviving townscapes. Though many rulers are mentioned, if you want to keep track of the list of Holy Roman Emperors, for instance, you'll need another book. (Mitchell, by contrast, is clear and complete in his accounts of rulers, but that's his topic.)

To give a sample of the prose, after a long discussion of the marriages of the British royal family to princesses from obscure German states, Winder writes,

I go on about this, partly because it is funny and curious (both the facts and the names), but also because these little territories had potentially very considerable power and prestige and the most bashful beginnings could end in glory. In a sort of asteroid belt of low-grade German princesses and narrow, petty, moustachioed princes, there was enough room for something really surprising to happen. Most absolutely alarming in this respect was pretty little Sophie Augusta Frederica of the laughable territory of Anhalt-Zerbst, a place so small it could hardly breathe. Her father was a Prussian field marshal and as a helpless pawn in plans to boost Prussian-Russian relations in the 1740s Sophie was shunted off to Russia where, after several ups and downs, she married the Grand Duke Peter, learned Russian, became Russian Orthodox, had Peter killed and wound up as Catherine the Great, devastating the Ottomans, the Swedes and the Poles and carving out immense new territories from Latvia to the Crimea. Indeed, a case could be made for her being the single most successful German ruler of all time, albeit not one ruling Germany.

Class Clown: The Memoirs of a Professional Wiseass, by Dave Barry (Simon & Schuster, 2025)

These are actual memoirs, not the 'personal tales of my everyday life' stories we're used to from the famous humor columnist. They are, however, professional memoirs. After opening chapters on his childhood and schooling, it discusses purely his career until he settles down at the Miami Herald, at which point it broadens out into a topic-oriented survey of work he did there, then narrowing back to a final chapter on his decision to retire 20 years ago, at which point it stops. It's also oriented towards his newspaper career; there's almost nothing about his books. Barry gives full descriptions in his typical amusing style, emphasizing eccentricities, of his parents - both now deceased - but all he says of his adult family is that he's been married three times, and there's a cameo appearance by his son.

But on that professional life he is clear and lucid. How he stumbled into a job as a reporter for a small-town paper and wrote his first professional humor columns there; a discussion of his seven years as a business-writing consultant, which he handles in some specific detail because of the training it provided him for his later career; how he sidled back into becoming a full-time humor columnist; why he took the job in Miami; and so on. He's a little reluctant to show his early work, which he doesn't think is very good; but once he becomes a professional he shows more of it, and the Miami chapters are tales about various feature stories and other items he wrote, much of which I hadn't known about. I'd forgotten, for instance, that Barry is the person who popularized Talk Like a Pirate Day. His greatest delight, though, is when he discovers that a celebrity he interviews has a good sense of humor.

As with Mitchell and Winder, Barry strikes a balance between serious and straightforward content and a witty and amusing way of writing about it. In his chapter on schooling (one of his classmates was Glenn Close, interestingly enough), he comes up with one sentence that perfectly encapsulates its topic - as I know, having suffered through the same thing in junior high:

At certain points of the week we boys would troop off to the shop, where we would learn, over the course of several months, how to use tools to turn pieces of wood into slightly smaller pieces of wood stained brown.

concert review: Symphony San Jose

Reviewed for SFCV.

This was a performance of The Planets in which the quiet parts had the same intensity and drive as the loud parts. I could go with that.

What I did not like was the added visuals. I thought it was going to be a special presentation of NASA material curated for this performance, but it wasn't. On checking I found that it was a film made in 2010, to accompany a recording of The Planets by the Houston Symphony, and that showing it at concerts with the soundtrack removed is a common practice. If I'd ever seen it before, I'd have been even more irritated.

The conductor having to wait for the opening credits to end before he could start the music provoked much amusement in the audience.

I explain in the review why I didn't like the movie, but my editor removed my description of what the movie contains. Perhaps he thought you could pick that up from the rest. At any rate, what I'd written was, "The visuals were a collection of film clips, some from nearby space, some closeup of surfaces, some of moons of the gas giants, of whichever planet Holst was depicting at the moment."